Rei Kawakubo played disappearance tricks in an cleverly deconstructed collection at the Paris season. Long black and navy trench-style coats appeared comparatively common from the front, but revealed they were backless when the models turned, displaying complete net tops and little bloomers. Kawakubo moved into several color and print, finding the vast collection of vintage scarves she has amassed over 40 years. These were perverted and rushed into a kaleidoscopic twister of color and pattern, for body-conscious dresses, from time to time intersected with asymmetric bands of black ruffles. lights all of a sudden came up again, as all the models returned In a blaze of gold, matching the gold curlicue helmets they had worn throughout the show. Zip-up anoraks, cocoon-like cagouls with huge hoods, shorts and little bloomers, were all accessorized with gold lace-up, bow front pumps and glitter socks.